A necklace of peaks in the San Juan range of southwestern Colorado surrounds the world-class all-season resort of Telluride providing spectacular mountain vistas, and the place to be for outdoor pursuits and exciting dining. Summertime activities include golf, hiking, mountain biking, rafting, horseback riding and fly-fishing.

First time visitors are always surprised to find Telluride a two-part resort town; the Victorian mining community lies in a picturesque valley cul de sac but conveniently links via a six-person gondola to Mountain Village, a snug enclave situated 1,000 feet higher up the slope. Riding the sleek, silver lift uphill is a thrill in itself, but gasps burst forth when the cabin virtually leaps into space from the top-most terminal on the descent.

This year both villages offer roaming wireless internet access. For a nominal daily or weekly fee guests can enjoy high-speed wireless service from several accommodations in town and on-mountain. For this reason we decided to sample two different lodges, the Wyndham Peaks Hotel & Golden Door Spa and Inn at Lost Creek. The Peaks is a 211-room hotel with a gaggle of activities that families favor, like swimming pools, tennis and full health and fitness facilities. The Inn at Lost Creek is an award-winning, terribly cozy, lodge with gracious European ambiance.

Telluride's golf is the high-altitude type and it is a terrific course to play with lots of surprises. A ball travels further than at sea level and the air is sparkling and clear. Sunset comes later than in Houston so a round can easily be played as late as 8:30 pm with mornings set aside for other pleasures. The 18-hole course was initially laid out in 1992 on the doorstep of the Peaks Hotel with fairways meandering uphill and down through dense aspen; all the while providing splendid views of the rugged countryside from every hole.

The par-71, 6,739-yard course incorporates juniper, purple sage and occasional glimpses of deer. Several tee boxes make the course totally player-friendly for various skill levels. Golfers are tested by both devilishly slick putting surfaces and secluded inspiring views. Open from May thru October, the club features golf carts fitted with Global Positioning that assists proper club selection. Green fees run about $145. A cart is needed for the variations in elevation. The season runs June through Labor Day.

Mentioned previously, we cannot say enough about the Inn at Lost Creek. The 32-room boutique hotel provides a refined retreat in Mountain Village within steps of the golf course, restaurants, shops and gondola. The Inn, listed by Conde Nast magazine as one of the "Top 100 Hotels in the World," is the chicest of Telluride's luxurious lodging.

Guest rooms are furnished with hand-hewn wooden furniture and Native American rugs; the warm decor bespeaks of quality. Each room has a private balcony and indulgent touches can include a steam shower, fireplace, deluxe kitchen or kitchenette and washer/dryer. The price of such first-class amenities ranges from $275 to over a $1,000 a night. On-site spa services and special treatments (massage, stone therapy, reflexology) are offered as well. The widely popular Inn houses 9545, a bistro-type restaurant preparing Diver sea scallops, blackened Alaskan butterfish and pan-seared venison. Phone 888-601-5678 or access www.innatlostcreek.com

As one local joked, "Telluride runs amok with restaurants," from bakeries, to bars to steakhouses and fine dining, there are easily 40 places to eat. Other smashing favorites tried recently are Navarra, Allred's, Cosmopolitan and 221 South Oak, the latter most notable for Chef Gavin's delicious blending of meats and herbs for the perfect sausage.

"Our invigorating weather is a good reason to visit," says Maryhelyn Kirwan, spokesperson for Telluride Ski & Golf Company. "The area's fresh mountain weather is a prime attraction. When it is sweltering in Kentucky, here it is 65-85 degrees. Our small mountain hamlet offers visitors a laid-back atmosphere that delights anyone coming from a large city. A car is not necessary in winter but in summer it is nice to have one to explore the varied facets of our outdoors."

As we soon learned, where else can you find really awesome skiing, Canadian lynx, a 14-acre operation that rescues and nurtures animals, the longest free-falling waterfall and the first bank vault that was robbed by Butch Cassidy? Look into it at www.tellurideskiresort.com.

Pat Pugh is a Houston-based travel writer. Her golf and outdoor features are published in Golf Houston magazine and Houston Sports News. She has received travel writing awards from Delta Airlines and the British Tourist Office.