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New Zealand not only has more sheep per person than any other country in the world, but also with over 400 golf courses, it has more courses per person than any country in the world. There are golf courses all over and not surprisingly, most of them are carved out of sheep-grazing pastures. That said -- the newest of New Zealand’s golf courses Cape Kidnappers, which is also built on a former sheep station, is simply extraordinary. Opened January 2004, the unique geography of Cape Kidnappers has been blessed by gifted golf course architect, Tom Doak, (of Bandon Dunes fame) , and further blessed by the resources of its owner-developer, Julian Robertson (of hedge fund fame), and his wife Josie Robertson. "Lord of the Rings" was filmed in exotic and beautiful locations in New Zealand, but, after playing Cape Kidnappers, golfers will agree that Doak and Robertson have earned the title "Lords of the Cape". [Editor's note: Cape Kidnappers was named “2004 Golf Course of the Year” by Travel & Leisure Magazine.] This is Robertson's second course in New Zealand and puts New Zealand on track to becoming the next boutique golf destination rivaling Ireland and Scotland. (Robertson’s first New Zealand course was Kauri Cliffs in the Bay of Islands at the most northern tip of New Zealand’s North Island. Also worth a visit!) Cape Kidnappers is located on a 250-acre tract resting on the top of a promontory that juts out into Hawke Bay – 500 feet above the sea at its highest point. The property is on the eastern coast of New Zealand's North Island -- south of Auckland and adjacent to the town of Napier – in the Hawke's Bay region. The approach to the golf course is in keeping with the sense of adventure and natural beauty that are New Zealand's signatures. The entrance road, which is estimated to have cost $10 million to build, begins at sea level and then winds upwards for five miles through beautiful pine forests and pastures. About half way up, Hawke Bay comes into view, but the course is not in sight until you are within a few hundred yards of its understated and elegant gray-shingled club house. Overall, the Cape's terrain is gently rolling and is defined by several ridges and valleys that reach like fingers out to the sea. Steep sea-side cliffs border half of the holes, and the Bay is visible from all eighteen. Doak established the routing from a topographic map and then followed it up with fifty days of on site refining and shaping the design. Not much dirt was moved, and the course was built start-to-finish in less than a year. Doak’s approach to design is rooted in the Alistair MacKenzie style with a heavy dose of "minimalism." The routing is brilliant. Except for a couple of bridges over 300 foot ravines, the holes flow naturally – one after another. The scale is grand and epic, to use Doak's description. "If we pulled out the flag sticks, let the greens grow, and took out a few bunkers, the land would be a sheep farm again," describes the Cape's Director of Golf.
A perfect example of the tall grass is me asking, "Where is my ball?" Of course, the beauty and serenity of the location are well worth a lost ball here and there. But all this talk of rough and grass should not deter women golfers. There are two sets of forward tees to choose from. I played a combo. And since most women hit the ball straight (even if not always far), the course is manageable and fun to play.
The heart of the course lies around the greens where wide aprons, grassy mounds and numerous bunkers challenge not only the golfer's skill, but also the imagination. The greens themselves are gently contoured with very subtle breaks that make them look easier than they are. The correct shot is seldom at the stick. There are no weak holes in the layout, and this consistency makes it one of the world's best. I do, however, have my favorites. The 6th hole named "Gully" is a beautiful par three (225 yards from the tips over a deep gully). It's double-trouble-gully because if you do not reach the green, balls easily roll back down the steep approach. The par-four 12th hole (460 yards) is named "Infinity" in honor of its infinity-green at the cliff's edge and also because it is the most wide-open driving hole. The 13th hole, a short (130 yard) par three, is named "Al's Ace" after Julian Robertson's son, Alex, aced the hole on his first round.
Where to Stay
Another option Summerlee House, an elegantly furnished country home (owned the original owners of the Cape's sheep station) that sleeps up to 12 guests and is managed by Black Barn Vineyards. Daily maid service is available, but the house is "self catered" or "self-contained" both which mean guests are responsible for preparing their own meals and purchasing their own groceries. Upon request, limited catering is available. Contact Vicky Orton at Blackbarn@blackbarn.com (www.blackbarn.com) Another nearby option is the bed and breakfast Merriwee Country Home House owned by Jeanne Richards. Tom Doak and his family stayed at Merriwee during the building of the course, and Julian Robertson also visits regularly. Jeanne provides a wonderful breakfast and her gardens are lovely. email: merriwee@xtra.co.nz Black Barn Vineyards offers several luxury cottages or "retreats" that are located on their vineyard – about thirty minutes from the golf course – in the town of Havelock North. The cottages are self-catered, furnished beautifully and very convenient to the outstanding lunch served in the Vineyard's Bistro Restaurant. Leave time for visiting Napier
For many visitors, the laid-back Hawke's Bay region will remind them of Napa Valley, California – about twenty years ago. When not playing golf, it's easy to pass the time tasting the excellent Hawke's Bay wines at the numerous wineries. Most of the wines are not exported to the United States so "it's now or never" if you want to enjoy them. I recommend: Black Barn Vineyards (about midway between Napier and Cape Kidnappers) is in the upscale town of Havelock North. In addition to the wine-tasting, Black Barn offers an outstanding gourmet lunch at its Black Barn Bistro; reservations recommended. Craggy Range Winery is one of the largest NZ vineyards. Taste its wine but come back for lunch or dinner to its Terroir Restaurant, rated one of New Zealand's best. For those that admire Julian Robertson and what he does for golf, you may wish to visit his newest wine investment, Te Awa vineyards, and then stay for lunch. Robertson also owns Dry River vineyard in the Marlborough region south of Hawke's Bay. Interesting Background
In 1978, long, long before Peter Jackson decided to film Lord of the Rings in New Zealand, Julian Robertson, one of the world's most successful hedge-fund managers as well as golf aficionado, visited New Zealand on a family vacation. Enthralled by the beauty of the country and with seasoned economic instincts, in 1995, he purchased a 5000 acre tract of land on the northeastern tip of New Zealand where he built Kauri Cliffs golf course and its luxury lodge. Shortly thereafter, Robertson purchased the Cape Kidnappers 5000 acres to build a sister course. Not long after purchasing the new tract, Julian and Josie played Pacific Dunes in Oregon. (Actually, they had wanted to play Bandon Dunes, and as the story goes, were very angry when moved to Tom Doak's new design. As Robertson reports, after playing Doak's layout along the ocean, he decided that Doak should design his new course. Topographic maps of Cape Kidnappers were quickly sent to Doak, and he agreed to take it on. The rest is history: The Lord of Hedge Funds and the Lord of Minimalist Golf Design put their heads and pocketbook together to become Lords of the Cape. Note: Tom Doak and Jack Nicklaus hope to break ground this coming summer on a new course they are jointly designing, Sebonack Golf Club in Southampton, Long Island.
Getting There
From Los Angeles, Qantas Airlines and Air New Zealand fly non-stop to Auckland. (Air NZ also flies non-stop from San Francisco.) Air NZ and Qantas also fly non-stop from Sydney, Australia to Auckland. From Auckland and other cities in New Zealand, Air New Zealand offers several flights daily to Napier. If you fly into Napier Airport and rent a car, allow ninety minutes travel time to the course. The Pro Shop at Cape Kidnappers will arrange to meet your plane and transport golfers to the course. Excellent highways lead to Napier from the north and south. Information about chartered helicopter service directly to the course and fixed-wing charters into the Napier airport are also available through the Pro Shop. If you have decided to splurge a bit on your New Zealand adventure, contact Andrew Harper Travel, specialists in luxury travel arrangements. For a nominal membership fee in Harper’s Q-Club, special rates and packages are offered at luxury accommodations – such as Cape Kidnappers and Kauri Cliffs. Golf Info
For men: The Blue "tips" at 7147 yards with a 76.3 rating and 141 slope are recommended for handicaps less than five. The White tees (6686 yards) for handicaps of 5 to 10 (Rating/Slope 73.8/137) The shortest tee rated for men with handicaps over 10 plays at 6242 yards and is only slightly easier with a rating of 71.5 and slope of 137. Contact Info
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On many holes, cart paths are not paved or even identified. The teeing areas themselves are camouflaged by the terrain and are intentionally ragged at the edges. Similarly, the edges of the fairway, which are planted with a mixture of colonial bent grass and fescue, merge and meld into the primary rough. The primary rough of two to four inches in turn merges into the native fescue – sometimes waist high -- which is left to brown-out and shift in the wind.
But there is wind – on some days as much as 50-miles per hour. By design and because of the wind, Doak has designed fairways that are generous and wide off the tee. This photo of me on the 12th green – one of the highest and most exposed greens on the course – shows how the wind was blowing that day last December.
Highly memorable is "Pirates Plank," the signature, splendid 650 yard par-five fifteenth and number one handicapped hole, which forces golfers to live dangerously on a narrow cliff-bordered fairway heading into the prevailing winds. And, we liked the controversial 18th hole with its punch-bowl green and the way it snuggles into the hill hidden from the clubhouse offering golfers an intimate farewell to their round.
The Club House and Pro Shop are rustically elegant. Virginia Fisher, New Zealand's top interior designer is credited with the décor, but everyone we spoke with confirms that Josie Robertson's hand, heart and exquisite taste played a big part . The décor, inspired by the property's original use as a sheep-shearing barn, uses white wash with native dark wood timbers and natural leather and linen accented by pewter finishes and historic black and white photographs.
(I could not resist this photo from inside the clubhouse and how it framed the 10th tee.
Our favorite accommodation is the 