Say the word "islands" and I'm on the plane. Nowhere in my experience is playing golf, however serious, done with less pretension or more pleasure.

In my quest for exotic fairways I agreed to hit some on the tiny island of Nevis in the West Indies. I admit I had my doubts. I had never been so far south in the Caribbean, except via cruise ship, and I worried about being shortchanged. After all, there's plenty of golf in the U.S. if you want adventure golf and it does require a day to make the trip there. But only on Nevis can one find sensational unpeopled golden sand beaches, the clearest turquoise water, succulent baby lobster, and two hundred year-old ruins.

After a week of balls lost to the jungle and slamming tee shots down narrow fairways carved out of steep green acres, my doubts disappeared. The courses visited were dramatic and challenging and far more beautiful than one can imagine. Charles Sutton of Miami explains that a small Caribbean island location is not only paradise but when it contains a name-designer golf course, it is Utopia.

Nevis is one of the Leeward Islands and is separated from its sister island of St. Kitt's by a two-mile channel.

Cockerels crowed and donkeys brayed as three of us drove the narrow blacktop in a rented jeep to the popular Four Seasons Resort Nevis. All along the way there are wonderful elevated views of mountain and sea. It is these lush and colorful hillsides that soon make up the site for one of the most spectacular golf courses in the Caribbean.

Nevis is off the radar screen of most vacationers. A pity, because Americans seeking exotic golf can now reach the pristine island from either the main hub of San Juan, Puerto Rico or Miami.

"It has a positive investment climate and has a perception of being a long term attractive destination," says Sutton. "And the island's magnificent 18-hole Four Seasons course designed by Robert Trent Jones, is a huge plus." For the past decade the Four Seasons Resort Nevis (top-rated in the Caribbean by Conde Nast) has attracted eager visitors willing to pay premium dollars for pristine beach time, a cozy private villa and deluxe service.

For many years the tiny island was sadly poor after a thriving sugar cane industry lost its U. S. export market. Today European capital has moved in with the Carino Development on hillside land that is part of the old Hamilton Sugar Estate. Plans are for 27 villas and 70 condos. A restaurant, pool bar, spa and tennis courts will also be constructed.

Shipping broker Adrian Dozier, is building his island home on a site formally part of that old sugar plantation. Dozier notes that Nevis has fair ease of access with American Airlines flights and "It has a fantastic lifestyle, wonderful people and a lower entry price than other resort destinations in the Caribbean and offers a western-friendly lifestyle with tremendous views in the tropics."

The lifestyle he refers to - killer rum punches and grilled lobster on the beach at world famous Sunshine's Beach Bar, and Colonial-style dining at the likes of The Hermitage and Nesbit Plantation - is also a strong lure for those looking to unwind in their own place in the sun. According to Dozier perhaps 30 percent of property buyers on Nevis are American and English.

"There's nothing like Nevis on the whole Planet." enthuses Patrizia Salles, a former Texan who is now an artist in residence producing magnificent wall mosaics, tiled basins and furniture. "I have made a long term commitment to join the ballooning group of expats making permanent homes on the island."

According to Four Seasons' head pro Bruce Wilson, "The law on Nevis prohibits swearing, so golfers beware: It's a jungle out there on the Robert Trent Jones II championship course."

Luckily, there are no official police patrolling the links. Even the most mild-mannered golf mavens have to bite their tongues as they conquer one of the region's most popular obstacle courses. Duffers must rise to the occasion as they climb 450 feet above sea level to the signature hole #15 before creeping back down towards the finishing hole set seaside. Over the mountain and through the rainforest, players encounter any number of demanding tee shots and dramatically dipping fairways amidst the dense foliage. Of course the stunning scenery helps cure any spinning slices or bruised egos and green "vervet" monkeys may make surprise appearances, swinging from the trees or scampering across fairways. Players thus easily distracted may miss their best shot.

The Four Seasons layout tumbles gorgeously down a mountainside overlooking the blue-blue Caribbean. Even from the White tees it is infernally difficult. If I can recall correctly it was the 576-yard fifteenth where the fairway weaves and tilts to a narrow strip of grass on the right and a jungly ravine on the left (the day we played there were a pair of monkeys munching alongside). The smallish 15th green is perched above like a frigate bird waiting for food and the views from that height reaches to neighboring islands.

Information: access the Nevis Tourism Authority www.nevisisland.com or call toll free 869-469-7551. Four Seasons worldwide reservations: 800-819-5053.

For this trip I flew American Airlines to Miami with a connection to St. Kitts. Taxis are readily available ($7) for airport service to the ferry dock for the 45-minute boat ride to Nevis. Ferry service is frequent between the two islands and costs about $20 one way.

Pat Pugh is a Houston-based travel writer. Her golf and outdoor features are published in Golf Houston and the English golf magazine Through The Green. She has received travel writing awards from Delta Airlines and the British Tourist Office.

All information on this website is ©1996-2008 RCM Productions, Inc. All Rights Reserved